Growing up in the islands, organic was never a term used. Perusing the silt carpeted aisles of the Coronation market on weekends or picking up local produce on the side of the road wasn’t the prized errand it is today. There wasn’t much concern regarding where the produce was from. They were fresh, locally growned and taken straight from Mr. SoAndSos yard. We ate without care of portions, barely gained any weight, and hardly ever felt sluggish. Ingesting good-old natural, non-chemical, pesticide foods has become such a rarity that we now distinguish fake foods (processed) from the organic (least tampered with). It’s become such a luxury, that the farm-to-table movement has exploded throughout much of the US and even the Caribbean.
In Jamaica, the greatest semblance of this delight is the culinary experience at Lisa and Chris Binns’ Stush in the Bush. Lisa (a former educator and New Yorker) and Chris (former Canadian) both know what it is to live abroad and returned home to fulfill the ambitious dream of making use of Chris’ family land. They’ve realized that dream and intimately opened the gate to their home and palatable haven of a kitchen to a few folks, a few times during the week. Their warmth and genuine hospitality is inviting and sincere. You will leave feeling like you were at a friend’s, and ever so pleased that you accepted her invitation to enjoy what may quite possibly be the best vegan meal you have ever had.
My best friend and I went to a fine dining Vegan restaurant in Miami, just February. We spent a pretty penny, the food was good and the service ok, but man did we miss the meat. For a meat-eater, it’s hard to walk away from a fully vegan experience feeling like something wasn’t missing. But Lisa accomplishes that! And in my opinion, that in itself is a testament to the carefully crafted dishes she prepares. Outside of her meticulously clever use of vibrant, mouth quivering flavors, is her ability to transform traditional meat and fish dishes into vegetarian ones. From pulled pork, to tuna poke (watermelon), and crispy honey glazed chicken (cauliflower), it was all a delight.
Stush in the Bush isn’t a restaurant. It’s actually the agriculturist and chef’s home. Chris and Lisa make dining a true the experience. You are by no means simply paying to eat a meal. The care and effortless service they provide manages to be warm and homely while maintaining the professionalism one may come to expect with fine dining. It’s a welcome to our home, we’ve prepared this 6 course meal especially for you. We’d like to take the time to explain the love that went into every part of your meal and the care that has been taken to infuse each bite with the very burst of flavor you are tasting now. I very much looked forward to the surprise of what each course brought and the test of whether or not I would ‘miss the meat.’ I didn’t.
The experience at Stush in the Bush offers a 4 ($70USD) to 6 course ($95USD) spread and includes a complementary tour of the Free Hill, Zionites farm (Prices are discounted for locals). Between appetizers and our amuse-bouche, we were offered calabashes and taken on a guided tour of the grounds by Chris himself. Starting with their lush and full mulberry tree, we were able to pick and eat our own ingredients. He shared his future plans for agricultural expansion and explained how almost all of the foods we were about to eat, were taken right below our very feet.
I picked and ate sweet, yummy, mulberries, dill, carrots and lychees. And I loved every moment of it. I wouldn’t hesitate to dine with the Binns again and I imagine the experience will only improve as they continue to perfect their dance.
If you’re in Jamaica and coming from Kingston, Stush in the Bush is located in St Ann. Its an approximate 75 minute drive via Highway 2000. From Montego Bay it could take you a little over 2 hours. If you are dissuaded by the solely vegan elements, dont be, I promise you won’t miss the meat. If I cant convince you, the Binns are also open to providing fish options upon request.
Have you been to Stush in the Bush?
What was your favorite thing about the experience?